Changalume

Today we accompanied Fr. Phillip to Changalume for Mass. This church and its dilapidated primary school are located on a road that sometimes must challenge even the goats. Part of the reason the school has not yet been updated is that trucks of cement, metal roof sections and other building supplies just would not make it up there. I suspect, though, that if he had $10,000 for a new Changalume School roof, Fr. Owen would figure something out during the dry season!

Changalume adjoins a military base, which occupies the site of an old cement plant. The foundation of the church, the school and a number of surrounding walls are made of limestone rocks arranged in cement mortar. Stronger than bricks, the rocks are also an attractive material. I asked how the cement plant got its product out, given the road. It turns out that there used to be a railway to this area. Too bad that it no longer operates.

A couple of army trucks pulled into the church yard to deliver loads of the faithful. We were greeted by a master sergeant who told us he’s been in the Malawi army for 22 years, 5 of them at Changalume. He expects to retire with a small pension, return to his home village, and he thinks then he’ll start a small business of his own.

Next to a home across the road there is a small structure with rows of huge yellow or brown tobacco leaves hung to dry. The roof, bunches of long grass tied together and secured at the peak, wasn’t waterproof. We wonder how the tobacco ever dries given the daily deluge.

I note that songs and prayers are a good way to absorb a language. I recognize the words, Ambuye (Lord), Oyera, Oyera, Oyera (Holy, Holy, Holy) and Mulumgu (God) as they are repeated in the familiar parts of the Mass. The songs are more solemn, the drums and dancers quiet during Lent.

During the announcements, another list of names was read. These people are eligible for partial bags of maize, which will be delivered from Namitembo next week. This is another contribution from the people of St. Bridget Parish in Seattle. The maize is growing taller and the harvest will come eventually. But for now, it’s still the hungry season.

Near the end of the service, Chet was asked to speak. He’s getting good at this after three or four experiences. “We are very happy to be with you this morning. You have been so welcoming to us. Many of you shook our hands. We thank you.” Then Phillip told the congregation a little about us. Chet is an engineer and is teaching in the trade school. Ann has been working at the nursery and also teaching at Namitembo Primary School. Then everybody laughed. On the way home, we found out that Phillip had assured them that they needn’t worry about us being the fabled “bloodsuckers” that had allegedly roamed the roads last year sucking blood, which would be given to white people. Who knew?

We stopped to drop off the catechist at his home. He has a couple of big pigs in back and a bunch of little black porkers running around. We’d not seen pigs in Malawi yet, so we all trooped to the back to check them out. He also has a woven grass dove shelter elevated on five foot poles. He and his family posed for photos in front of their home and then we headed back to Namitembo.