African Easter

The Easter Vigil Mass, a midnight ceremony in most places, began at 3 p.m. People want to be at home when it is dark. An added difficulty this year is the fact that the maize is ripe and there is a big theft problem, especially if the thieves think that everyone is in church. We have heard a lot about maize theft in the last few weeks. People hurry out to harvest their fields or hire others to do it for them, before it is stolen. The bags of maize that used to be stored in outdoor woven bins are now kept inside houses.

On Friday, we attended an outdoor Stations of the Cross ceremony at Chinseyo. Members of the Catholic women’s organization wore purple skirts and head coverings, as they do for funerals and other occasions. The stations began on a road about 2 km from Chinseyo. The steadily growing group walked slowly, singing hymns and stopping at special crosses to say prayers for each of the 14 stations. Members of the Episcopalian Church, who had completed their own service, stood to watch. Muslim neighbors gathered on their kondis as the procession went past, wending through the market and on to Nkasala Church. The church was filled to overflowing because this was the only Good Friday service in Namitembo Parish. We sat outside for most of the service, along with many mothers and babies and some of the men.

Saturday afternoon, Namitembo Church was festive with paper chains and pieces of cloth hung on overhead wires the width of the building. Outside, next to a small fire, the drums were placed so the heads would warm and stretch. People gathered around for the blessing of the fire and the Easter candle. Then everyone processed into the church. After the readings, the choir and instruments began in full voice for the first time since the beginning of Lent. The young dancers moved up the aisle, stepping, reaching, turning and bowing to the rhythm of the music. Most dancers are girls, but six young boys at this church are learning the steps. They participated with great gusto.

Fifty adult catechumens, who have been studying for three years, were baptized or accepted into the Catholic Church during the Easter Vigil. They spent the past week here, attending special classes and preparing for the event. The catechumens sat in front awaiting the moment of their baptism. One of them had given birth only a day earlier and the little baby was there, along with a number of slightly older babies who are always with their mothers. The whole congregation sang and danced in place. After the baptisms and confirmations, everyone clapped and cheered.

As the ceremony continued, the light paled. By the time Mass was over it was a dark African Autumn night. Chocolate bunnies haven't made it to Namitembo, but in the evening someone arrived with a bowl of traditional fried pastries to wish us Happy Easter!